Every single outsider visiting Himachal- Bhai Malana Cream hai kya??? Yes, we’ve faced this conversation with an outsider. Haven’t you?
It’s a bright sunny morning in the mountains and as soon as the first rays of sunlight reach the roof of your homestay, your eyes have jauntily opened. Last night was fun, smoking hashish and drinking alcohol with some Chakhna. It is noon already, you’re smoking again. And before you could even come out of your bed, your jauntily opened eye closes again. And the cycle repeats.
Maybe this is not your story but we’re sure many of you can relate. Do you? Malana is set amid the lush green and shimmering snow-capped mountains in the Parvati Valley, 9500 feet above sea level. In this ancient village, the villagers have been keeping several secrets from outsiders, however, it is not hidden from anyone that they produce the world’s best hashish. So if you want to visit this village, read this lengthy blog till the end. Why not have some Malana mysteries together? After all, it’s good to know things beforehand especially when it comes to Malana.
Malana Is a Nest Egg of Fascinating and Tabled Questions. Let’s Dive
Photo By – Abhishek & Shaikh
The ancient Himalayan hamlet of Malana, perched at an elevation of around 8700 feet is believed to be one of the oldest living democracies in the world. With snow-capped mountains and steep cliffs that surround it, Malana enjoys a beautiful seat in the Himalayas. There are nearly 4,700 people living in this village, and travellers have long been drawn here to have the famed and award-winning Malana cream, which locals regard as a holy herb and outsiders regard as a way to relieve the mind in the midst of cold winds and rows of dark green deodar trees.
Malana Myths and History
History abounds in Malana, and its people are said to descend from Alexander the Great’s army. According to them, they are pure Aryans. And the language they speak, ‘Kanashi,’ combines Sanskrit and Tibetan dialects as their own language, left by the devil as a keepsake.
It is said that, during a battle against Porus, a ruler in India’s Punjab region, some of Alexander the Great’s army sought shelter in this isolated village in 326 BC. Many people believe that these soldiers were Malani’s ancestors. There are artifacts from that period in the village, including a sword that is said to be housed inside the Malana temple. As of yet, no genetic ties have been established between the soldiers and the Malana people. It is widely believed that the Malana people descended from Alexander the Great’s army, but we’re not sure that there is any solid evidence that supports this claim. Nevertheless, locals’ different physical features and language, unlike those of any other tribal group in the area, power these theories, but then as we said no theory or evidence is there to support this.
People here are generally not open to change, though there are some traces of modernization visible. Non-Malani are considered inferior in Malana, and therefore untouchable. You’ve to keep to the prescribed paths when visiting Malana town and do not touch any of the walls, houses, or people. Consequently, you’ll have to pay a forfeit to purify the impure item by sacrificing a lamb to cover the cost of sacrificial slaughter. Non-Malanis may never cook for Malanis unless they are outside the valley where their Devta cannot see them. Before using utensils again, Malanis must undergo a strict purification ritual.
When you look at their judicial system, it is obvious that the Malanese are people of faith. Comparatively speaking, Malana’s judiciary is not practical at all. Here’s what they do instead. Each lamb’s right foreleg is stuffed with poison when there is an impending decision to resolve a conflict, and then it is sewn back by hand. People who lose judgment are implied to be those whose lambs die first. According to their belief, Devta makes the decision.
Well, their Devta is Jamlu Rishi. And here’s a peep into Devta history.
In ancient times, Jamdangni Rishi (Jamadagni)used to worship Brahma, Vishnu, and Mahesha. When he asked for a boon after praying intensely, Shiva appeared before him. In his request for a secluded, nature-filled place, Jamdagani Rishi requested a place surrounded by nature’s bounty that is perfect for meditation. Shiva asked him to go to Malana. He was followed by his two brothers. He then turned them away by giving them the regions of Lahaul and Banjar valley. After reaching Malana he found out that the region was controlled by Banasura. The Rakshasa retaliated against Rishi, resulting in a fight between the two.
Jamdagni Rishi and Banasura fought for days but there was no end to it, thereafter, they resolved their conflict by agreeing on the following terms:-
1. Separation of administration and justice.
2. Banasura was to be consulted about selecting members of the executive board whereas Jamdagni Rishi was in charge of justice.
3. The judiciary would settle disputes within the administration.
4. It became mandatory for those living in Malana to speak Kanashi and follow the village’s customs and traditions.
5. It was customary to offer sacrifices to Banasura the Rakshasa during festivals.
Although Jamdagini Rishi became superior to Banasura over time, the village still adheres to its (Banasura) traditions.
Malana Culture
People are fascinated by their cultures, customs, and religious beliefs, and the Malana people are no exception. Malani’s (people of Malana) speak Kanshi, which is only known to them. In a democracy, people have an undying belief in the Devta Jamlu. The town council pursues the whole town administration under him. Jamlu is represented by 11 council members. Since there are no external influences, it is referred to as Athens of the Himalayas. As a matter of fact, Marijuana/Hashish is the exclusive source of income in Malana, the Parvati Valley.
As for the festivals, the middle of February is dedicated to a celebration known as Fagli. The event involves everyone taking a bath and wearing nothing but devil masks and cannabis leaves. Dancers scatter cow dung around houses to provide insulation from cold. The festival is a continuation of Akbar. The 15th of August marks another festival, Shaun.
Fagli Festival Malana
As the stars twinkle in the sky, a fire is lit. It is precisely because men smoke marijuana all day and they do not feel cold at night even if the snow is still on the ground. The men and women get dressed in traditional attires, Chola robes, kalgis, and tight pajamas. Drums and flutes are played as a propitiation to the fire god. And there you go! Seeing men dancing while holding fire-torched sticks is truly amazing. The ritual is performed in both Malana and Tosh. To appease the local fire god, the whole village comes out at night with a fire-torched pole. A goat is sacrificed on this night. Traditionally, this area practices animal sacrifice as a form of purification. Meat from the animal is eaten by all members of the community.
Read More about Fagli (Faguli) Festival: Faguli – The Festival of Masks
Shaun Festival Malana
Locals begin the Shaun festival by wearing their traditional clothing called ‘pattu’ made from sheep wool and conducting formal duties. A tree is brought to the middle of the ground by the priest known as Pujari in front of Jamdagni Rishi’s Temple. He then sets a tree on fire with his mantras. A sheep is sacrificed in front of the crowd and offered as a cleansing ritual to Jamadagni Rishi while locals play instruments. It is customary for the men of the village to consume alcohol and smoke Malana cream throughout the festival and to dance and play music into the night. The women are allowed to watch and participate in the festivities.
How to Reach Malana Village
Malana and Kullu are approximately 50 kilometres apart by road and 3 kilometres apart on foot. Parvati Valley is the easiest way to reach Malana. You can reach Malana by taxi from Jari, a place about 23 km away from Malana. Malana can’t be reached by public transportation. Those visiting from abroad must register at the Jari powerhouse.
If you wish to drive on your own to Parvati Valley, take your own car. This allows you to chill out and make your own decisions. Although you cannot drive directly to Malana, you will need to park somewhere, and finding a place to park might be an unnecessary tussle.
Similarly, you can plan a bike trip to Malana. Don’t worry if you don’t have one, there are many bike rental services in Delhi, Chandigarh, and Manali, which makes everything sorted. From Jari village, it is the same route to Malana. Enjoy your adventurous ride!
As winters are harsh in Malana, the best time to visit is from March to October. Those who wish to explore Malana Village on a budget can stay at budget-friendly accommodations. Most people prefer to visit Malana Village for a day tour.
Food in Malana
Malana is located in a very isolated space so expecting too much here is not at all valid. Fundamental food is available at Malana. No matter what you get, you should happily eat it, since food is not a luxury but a necessity. The region is dotted with about half a dozen shacks, and there are a couple of guest houses that serve food as well.
Cafes and Homestays in Malana
While most travellers return to Jari or Kasol on the same day, if you wish to stay in Malana you definitely can, it has a couple of cafes and homestays located in the outskirts of Malana. You might want to consider Malana Cafe, Magical Tribe, and Rudra Cafe. And as for homestays, there is Dreams99 Cafe and Homestay, Nirvana Cafe and Homestay, and Vedas Cafe and Homestay.
Fun fact: Inside the village, only Malanis can run businesses which they do run. As of now there are two properties in the village.
Also, Camping near the village with expansive views of the night skies is another great option. Camping is available at many locations. Anyhow, before making any concrete plans for camping, it is best to check with the locals in Jari village.
Things to do in Malana
1. There is nothing better than camping under the glittery stars in Malana.
2. Trekking: Waichin Valley- Approximately 5 km from Malana is a waterfall with some breathtaking views. You will find yourself mesmerized by the breathtaking Himalayan views in the Waichin Valley if you keep moving forward.
Chandrakhani Pass Trek- This delightful trek starts from Naggar. It is said that the Malana deity Rishi Jamlu opened the punnet containing Gods of Kullu and after a strong wind blew them to their present abodes.
Dev Ropa- This yet another beautiful trek is also a great option for a perfect escape. It is 7 day and 6-night trek and starts from Malana Dam. You can also explore Deo Tibba and Malana Glacier treks.
3. Village walk is a must. The unique architecture of the village is something you’ll find very fascinating.
4. A trip to Tosh from Malana can always be planned when visiting the Parvati Valley.
5. It is forbidden to enter Jamlu Devta Mandir – but its intricate work and architecture are surely worth a visit.
Visitor’s Guide to This Petit Village
1. Avoid getting into physical contact with Malana’s villagers. Despite the friendly nature of the people here, outsiders cannot touch anyone without their permission. Even the shopkeepers will ask you to keep the money on the counter.
2. It is best to seek permission before photographing villagers.
3. It is forbidden for visitors to use the local dialect, Kanashi.
4. Furthermore, it is strictly forbidden to visit temples. It may be for the sake of maintaining secrecy about their practices that this prohibition is in place.
5. Wild animal hunting is prohibited without the village council’s permission. There is also a ban on wood burning. It is also forbidden to fix nails on trees. In short – respecting mother nature is what they believe in.
6. Intervention by the police is not permitted. You’ll be fined if you ask the police for help.
So this was it! If you want to travel to Malana follow this guide and we’re sure you’ll have a blast. Share this informative blog with your friends and family and follow us on Instagram for beautiful pictures of Himachal Pradesh. And if you think we left out something do comment or drop a mail to us at instahimachal@gmail.com. We’ll be more than happy.
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