Dev Bhoomi Himachal Pradesh is known for its religious history, festivals, and temples. Well, these are the main reasons for the religious feelings of every state. However, what makes Himachal Pradesh a unique state is the variety of tribal cultures and traditions that still are celebrated with great enthusiasm. Let’s spell it out!
The festival of Maha Shivratri is celebrated across India as it is one of the most important fasts and days in the Hindu calendar reserved for worshipping a specific god. Across the country, people fast for almost a day prior to the feast and ceremonies are more meditative than revelry, chanting mantras and praying to the Hindu God Shiva. However, there is jubilation and gaiety in a small town in Himachal Pradesh it is celebrated with great pomp and show, and seven days of festivities take place at the Shivratri Mela. And that small town is none other than Mandi also known as Choti Kashi. A variety of rich colours and many unique traditions can be seen at the fair.
Do you know the quaint town of Mandi is also known as the Varanasi of Himachal. Well, let us throw some light on that for you. As a matter of fact, residents of the region boast that while Kashi (Varanasi) has 80 temples, this tiny town along the river Beas has 81! Isn’t that great!
In Mandi, there are numerous temples dedicated to Shiva, of which Trilok Nath temple, Panchvaktra temple, and the Bhootnath temple are the main ones. Bhootnath temple hosts the centuries-old Shivratri Mela.
During the days of Shivratri, the town emanates an atmosphere of excitement and religious fervour as many deities both local and foreign mark this event in their calendar. The fair starts on the day of Shivratri which can either fall in the month of February or March depending upon the Lunar Calendar. This year it’s going to begin on 8th March and will end on 15th March. For over a week, this little town celebrates the arrival of hundreds of richly decorated Deities/Devtas. The whole procession are held in a large open space, Paddal Ground. The festivities include songs, dance and other exciting activities.
A Sneak Peek Into The History
Legend has it that ruler Ajber Sen, the first ruler of Mandi, dreamt of a cow offering milk to an idol of Shiva. One day he saw that a cow was offering milk to an idol, it was his dream come true. Eventually, he built a Shiva temple there– the Bhootnath temple. In the meantime, he laid the foundation for Mandi town and shifted his capital there. During his reign, he built a palace here embellished with four towers.
The town was founded in 1526. To celebrate the new town’s founding, he invited all the Local Deities/Devtas. Ever since it is a tradition for hundreds of Deities to gather at Mahashivratri. As princely states ceased to exist, it was the District Administration that invited the Gods and Goddesses.
What Happens at the Fair?
Devotees from remote villages usually travel on foot for two-three days carrying murtis of their local Deity in ornate palanquins on their shoulders and jumping in joy and gaiety. They arrive at the ground and stay at a designated spot. The palanquins are adorned in chadar (a red and orange cloth) and fresh flowers. Palanquins dance to the drumbeats and folk music to signify happiness after visiting the temples of Lord Vishnu and Lord Shiva. When they pass through neighbourhoods people rush to watch them from their windows and rooftops.
The fair’s opening day is led by Lord Madho Rai, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu and the principal deity. Then the assembled deities follow him and gather in front of the Bhootnath temple. The opening, middle and closing stages of the fair are all marked by processions, locally known as Jalebs. The processions also feature Gurs (the voices of the deities) and pujaris. Jaleb or say the Shobha yatra starts from Raj Madhav Rai temple and ends at the Paddal Ground. It is all and all a spiritual experience to watch the processions. And the sounds of shehnais, drums, karnals (long wind instruments), and thonkru’s (large trumpets) are so intriguing, enough for raising goosebumps one might say.
People from the town and the neighbouring villages flock to the fairgrounds to do darshan and receive blessings from Deities. Priests perform rituals and practices in the temples to please the gods living in the town. There are chants recited in the temples to please the Gods. While the festival has witnessed numerous changes over the years, such as the Government of India replacing the king as the host, the ban on ritualistic goat sacrifices at various temples during Shivaratri, and the introduction of cultural evenings with stars, the presence of many Gods and Goddesses continue to create an aura of joy and festivity in the small town of Mandi.
Read More: Rich Culture and Traditions of the Halda Festival in Lahaul
What is Madho Rai’s Story?
In the late 1600s, the Bhootnath temple was the main temple at Mandi town until local ruler Raja Suraj Sen built the ‘Madho Rai temple’ dedicated to Lord Vishnu, based on advice from his priest. It was he who installed Madho Rai as Mandi’s protector Deity. The reason behind all this was, Raja Suraj Sen’s 17 (some say 18) children died shortly after birth, and he was concerned about losing the heir to the throne. Following the advice of his priest, he converted to Vaishnavism, installed Madho Rai as king and himself as dewan.
According to the legends, the ‘Shaivite rulers’ of Mandi adopted Madho Rai as their Guardian Deity, and that ‘something similar is also found in southern India, where the rulers of Travancore dedicated the kingdom to Padmanabha, and ruled as his representatives’. And the earlier mela, which had commenced with the foundation of the Bhoothnath temple, took on a dual character under Madho Rai, which was combined with the features of a darbar (royal court assembly), where deities from the surrounding villages and towns came to pay respects to Madho Rai.
During the fair, mornings are dedicated to religious and spiritual services including prayers while the evenings are celebrated with various musical and cultural programmes. On the last day of the fair, shlokas are chanted and after paying homage to Lord Vishnu and Shiva, all the deities assemble in Mandi before going back to their original abodes.
The Mandi Shivratri fair is important for many across India and Nepal. It is a time of devotion, prayer and celebration and is important for Hindus, especially for the followers of Lord Shiva. This year over 215 Gods and Goddesses are invited to participate in Mahashivratri.
Read More: Sangla Celebrates Holi Better Than Any Other Place
How to reach for Mandi Shivratri?
Mandi, located in Himachal Pradesh, is a popular tourist destination in India. Here are some ways you can get here.
By Air: The closest airport to fly to Mandi is Kullu Manali airport in Bhuntar if you plan to fly. The airport is approximately 60-70 kilometres from Mandi. Airlines like Air India connect it with other Indian cities such as Delhi, Mumbai, and Bengaluru. The remaining distance must be covered by cab or bus after you deboard at the airport.
By Train: The nearest railway station is Joginder Nagar, 50 km away. It has convenient rail connections to Chandigarh. Almost all major cities in the country are connected to Chandigarh by rail. You can reach Mandi easily by taxi from Joginder Nagar.
By Road: It is easy to get to Mandi by road. There are buses operated by HRTC and private operators connecting Mandi with most major towns in the state, such as Manali, Shimla, and Dharamsala. Additionally, state-owned and private buses connect Delhi and Chandigarh with Mandi.
Where to Stay?
There are a number of budget-friendly hotels in Mandi like Hotel Lomush, River Bank, Himgiri resort, River Hill, Atithi Guest House etc. And if you want to experience real culture, you should check out the Heritage Raj Mahal Palace. The hotel was formerly the royal family’s residence in Mandi, but it was converted into a guesthouse in 1982. A wide range of accommodation options are available at the hotel; you can choose from cottages, rooms, and suites. It will cost you around Rs. 2500 for two.
What to Eat?
The relationship between fairs and festivals and food is special. It’s a great opportunity to try some dishes that aren’t available all year round. One of them is Lucchi.
This recipe was brought from West Bengal by the royal family of Mandi, but today it is so famous that people hunt for it during the Shivratri fair.
Don’t miss the Dhaam (a traditional multi-course meal) and Siddu (a fluffly bread made with flour, walnuts, peanuts, etc.) at the fair.
This may seem a little overwhelming to people living in cities, but trust us if you spend time with the locals and listen to their stories, you’ll start believing the fiction. And once you realize that, Shivratri will take on a whole new meaning.
So start packing and head to Mandi this Shivratri. Shoot videos, take pictures, and show your love for the local culture to the world out there!
Happy Shivratri! May Lord Shiva Bless you with Good.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. In what year was the Mandi Shivratri fair declared international?
It was in 2016 when Mandi Shivratri was declared an international fair.
2. Is Mahashivratri the darkest night of the year?
Mahashivratri is considered the most sacred night in Hinduism, and is known as “the great night (ratri) of Shiva”. During this night, the moon disappears. So, yes it is the darkest night of the year.
3. Why is Mandi famous?
Mandi is famous for its week-long Mahashivratri that starts from the day of Shivratri.
4. What Raja of Mandi established the Shivratri fair as a cultural festival?
Raja Ajbar Sen, the ruler of Mandi, established the festival in 1527 AD. It was only in 1705 that Raja Suraj Sen introduced the present form of the cultural festival to the fair.
5. Who was the first king of Mandi?
First and foremost, Ajbar Sen ruled over Mandi. It was probably he who first assumed the title of Raja. Moreover, he added new territories that he wrested from the hands of his neighbours to those he inherited from his ancestors. Later, he built a palace here that was adorned with four towers.
